Land Rover & Range Rover Maintenance Parts

Oil Change Guide 

Regular oil changes are one of the most important maintenance tasks for keeping your Land Rover or Range Rover running smoothly and reliably. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or simply looking to understand the process better, this step-by-step guide will walk you through a complete oil service for the Range Rover Sport (2010–2013). From warming up the engine to torque specs and leak checks, we cover every detail, with beginner-friendly explanations and real mechanic tips included.

1. Warm Up the Engine

Before draining the oil, the engine needs to reach full operating temperature. Drive the vehicle for at least 10–15 minutes or let it idle until the needle on the coolant temperature gauge sits near the middle. This warms the oil to a lower viscosity, allowing it to drain more completely and carry contaminants like soot, fuel residues, and varnish deposits out with it.

Pro Tip: Cold oil drains more slowly and leaves behind harmful deposits in turbo oil lines and bearing journals, especially in the TDV6 and SDV6 models.

2. Elevate the Vehicle Safely

Park the vehicle on a flat, hard surface. Apply the parking brake and use wheel chocks if necessary. Raise the front of the car using a hydraulic jack and support it securely with axle stands or ramps. Ensure the vehicle sits level, not nose-up, incorrect leveling leads to incomplete drainage.

⚠️ Avoid using oil vacuum extraction systems through the dipstick tube- they leave residue in the pan and fail to remove debris sitting near the sump pickup, which is particularly risky for Land Rover’s turbo diesel engines.

3. Remove the Undertray / Splash Shield

Underneath the engine, there is usually a plastic splash shield (also called an undertray) that protects components from road grime. It’s held in place with 8–10mm bolts or clips. Use a 10mm socket to remove them, keeping track of each one as they’re easily dropped or lost.

 Some models may have metal fasteners that corrode — apply penetrating fluid (like WD-40) beforehand to avoid stripping.

4. Position the Drain Pan

Place a suitable oil drain container (minimum 10L capacity) beneath the oil sump. Align it slightly off-centre as oil often exits diagonally due to plug angle. If you’re working outdoors, consider using a wide flat tray or cardboard underneath to catch splashes or overspill.

🔧 Recommended tool: Large capacity oil catch pan or cut-down 20L water canister with side panel removed for extra clearance.

5. Remove the Drain Plug

Using a 13mm socket and ratchet, slowly loosen the oil sump plug located on the driver’s side of the oil pan. Be prepared for hot oil to gush out rapidly once the plug is released. Gloves are essential. Let the plug drop into the pan if needed... you can retrieve it once the oil cools.

Note: Some vehicles may have a non-original bolt; verify the thread and size before reinstalling.

6. Allow the Oil to Drain Completely

Wait a minimum of 25–30 minutes to allow every drop to drain. Impatience here can leave behind dirty oil and compromise engine lubrication. Don’t unscrew the oil filler cap or remove the dipstick during this time — it can introduce airborne dust or debris into the system.

🛠️ The L320 diesel engines are highly sensitive to oil starvation — thorough drainage ensures no sludge remains in critical oil passages or turbo feed lines.

7. Remove the Oil Filter

While oil is draining, locate the oil filter housing — typically positioned vertically at the front-top of the engine bay. Use a 76-14F oil filter socket to loosen the filter cap. Twist counterclockwise and gently remove it, being careful of any oil that may spill.

 Dispose of the old filter and rubber seal — never reuse either. Doing so compromises the new seal’s ability to maintain proper pressure and filtration.

8. Reinstall the Drain Plug

Clean the sump drain threads and surrounding area. Fit a new copper crush washer onto the plug. Thread it in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Then, torque the plug to:

• 30Nm (22 lb-ft) for metal plugs
• 5Nm (3 lb-ft) for plastic plugs

🚫 Do not overtighten. Overtorquing plastic plugs can strip threads or cause future leaks.

9. Fit the New Oil Filter

Lubricate the new rubber O-ring seal with a small amount of fresh engine oil. Install the filter and torque the housing to 25Nm (18 lb-ft) using the oil filter wrench.

You don’t need to pre-fill the oil filter on these engines — the pump primes quickly on startup without damaging the engine.

10. Add New Engine Oil

With the drain plug and filter reinstalled, remove the oil filler cap and begin adding fresh oil. Use a funnel to avoid spills. Start with 80% of the full capacity:

• 6.5L for petrol
• 6.5–6.8L for diesel

Wait two minutes, then check the dipstick.

11. Top Up Gradually

Use the dipstick to gauge oil level. Avoid overfilling, this stresses engine seals, leads to oil foaming, and can cause the engine to throw fault codes. Keep within the “A” range on the dipstick. Add oil in 200–300ml increments, checking the level after each addition.

12. Start the Engine and Prime the System

Replace the filler cap and start the engine. Let it idle for 2 minutes. The oil pressure light may flash briefly ... this is normal while the oil system builds pressure and fills the filter housing.

 Listen for any knocking or abnormal noise. If anything sounds wrong, turn off the engine immediately and recheck oil level.

13. Final Oil Level Check

Turn off the engine and wait 5 minutes for the oil to settle. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert, and check the level again. You’ll typically need to add an extra 200–250ml to account for oil absorbed by the new filter.

Confirm oil sits just below the max line - never at or above it.

14. Inspect for Leaks

While the engine is running or just after shutting down, check around the drain plug and filter housing. Look for slow drips or signs of seepage. Wipe all areas clean with a cloth and repeat the check after your first drive.

🔍 Also check for oil smell in the cabin after driving ... this can indicate residual spillage on the exhaust or crossmember.

15. Finish the Job

Reinstall the splash shield, checking that all bolts are securely fastened. Lower the vehicle safely. Don’t forget to reset the oil service reminder via the infotainment or dashboard menu, depending on your vehicle’s software version.

Refer to your owner’s manual for instructions if you’re unsure how to perform the reset.

See our full DIY oil change guide for all torque specs and safety notes

Disclaimer

This summary is for general guidance only. Always consult your workshop manual. Budget Parts is not liable for damage caused by incorrect use.