Oil Change Guide for the Land Rover Range Rover Sport (2010–2013)

Complete DIY Service Procedure for TDV6, SDV6 & Common Petrol Models

Regular oil changes are one of the most important maintenance tasks you can perform on a Range Rover Sport L320 (2010–2013). These engines... especially the 3.0 TDV6 and SDV6- rely heavily on clean, high-quality oil to prevent turbo starvation, timing chain wear, and premature bearing damage. If you service your vehicle yourself or simply want to understand the process better, this step-by-step guide walks you through everything safely, clearly, and with the right torque specs.

Why This Guide Matters

The L320 is known for strong performance and refinement, but it’s also sensitive to neglected servicing. Dirty or incorrect oil can accelerate wear on turbos, crank bearings, and timing components. A proper oil change doesn’t just extend engine life, it protects your investment and keeps fuel economy, response, and reliability at their best.

Recommended Oil & Filter Specs 

For Diesel: TDV6 / SDV6 Engines

• Oil Type: Fully synthetic 5W30 or 5W40

• Standards: ACEA C1 / C2 / C3 (depending on climate and engine condition)

• Capacity: ~6.5–6.8 litres

For Petrol Engines:

• Oil Type: Fully synthetic 5W30

• Capacity: ~6.5 litres

Filter: OEM or high-quality aftermarket (avoid generic filters)

Drain Plug Washer: New copper crush washer required at each service

Tools & Materials

1. 13mm socket and ratchet (drain plug)
2. 10mm socket (splash shield)
3. Oil filter wrench (76-14F type)
4. Jack + stands or lift
5. 10L+ drain pan
6. Funnel
7. New oil filter
8. Approved engine oil
9. New drain plug washer
10. Gloves / rags
11. Optional: aluminium foil (pro trick!)

Step-by-Step Oil Change Instructions

1. Warm Up the Engine

Allow the engine to run for 10–15 minutes. Warm oil drains faster, carries more contaminants with it, and leaves less residue inside the engine.

2. Safely Elevate the Vehicle

• Park on a level surface
• Apply the parking brake
• Raise the vehicle using a jack and stands (or use an inspection pit)
• Make sure the car sits level to ensure full drainage

⚠️ Avoid vacuum extraction (dipstick method) - it leaves sludge behind, especially harmful for TDV6 turbos.

3. Remove the Splash Shield

• Using a 10mm socket, remove the plastic undertray bolts. Lower it gently to expose the oil pan and filter housing.

4. Position the Drain Pan

Place the drain pan under the oil pan drain bolt, slightly offset to catch the oil’s diagonal flow pattern.

5. Remove the Drain Plug

• Use a 13mm socket and carefully loosen the bolt
• Watch for hot oil - it can reach 90°C
• Let the plug fall into the pan if needed

Inspect the drain plug for wear. Replace if damaged.

6. Allow the Oil to Drain Fully

Let the engine drain for at least 30 minutes.

Patience here removes more sludge and prevents contamination of fresh oil.

7. Remove the Old Oil Filter

• Locate the filter housing
• Use a 76-14F oil socket
• Expect a small amount of oil spill

Never reuse oil filters. They are cheap but critically important.

8. Reinstall the Drain Plug

• Clean the oil pan threads
• Fit a brand-new copper washer
• Thread by hand to avoid cross-threading
• Torque to the correct spec:

Drain Plug Torque:

• Metal plug: 30Nm (22 lb-ft)

• Plastic plug: 5Nm (3 lb-ft – do NOT overtighten)

💡 Optional pro move: Pour about 1 litre of fresh oil through the engine before closing — it helps flush residual old oil.

9. Install the New Oil Filter

• Lightly lubricate the new rubber seal with fresh oil
• Install by hand, then torque to 25Nm (18 lb-ft)
• No need to pre-fill the filter -the system primes quickly

10. Add Engine Oil

• Remove filler cap
• Add 80% of the required capacity
• Wait 2 minutes
• Check the dipstick

Use only manufacturer-approved oil for your engine type and the climate you drive in.

11. Top Up Gradually

Dipstick indicators:

• A (Max): Stop. Do not overfill.
• B (Mid): Topping up is fine.
• C (Min): Must add oil immediately.

⚠️ Overfilling stresses seals, reduces performance, and can trigger errors.

12. Start the Engine

• Replace the filler cap
• Start the engine and let it idle for 2 minutes

A brief oil pressure warning is normal right after a filter change.

13. Final Oil Level Check

• Turn off engine
• Wait 5 minutes
• Recheck dipstick
• Top up if needed

The oil filter typically absorbs 200–250ml after the first start.

14. Inspect for Leaks

Check:

• Drain plug
• Oil filter housing
• Surrounding areas

Wipe away any spillage to avoid burning smell during the first drive.

15. Finish the Job

• Reinstall the undertray
• Reset the oil service reminder via the vehicle menu
• Check hood closure

Your Range Rover Sport is now properly serviced.

Common DIY Mistakes (Avoid These!)

1. Over-tightening the plastic drain plug
2. Forgetting to replace the copper washer
3. Pouring oil too quickly (dipstick reads incorrectly)
4. Letting the vehicle sit nose-high (poor drainage)
5. Leaving splash shield bolts loose
6. Using the wrong oil type (very common!)

Quick Torque Reference Table

When You Should Change Your Oil More Frequently

You should shorten your oil change intervals (7,000–10,000 km) if:

• You drive mostly short city trips
• You tow trailers or heavy loads
• The engine has 150,000 km+
• You drive gravel/dusty terrain
• The vehicle is remapped (Stage 1 tuning)

Dirty oil is the TDV6’s biggest enemy.

Signs Your Oil Is Overdue

1. Metallic ticking on cold start
2. Louder turbo whistle
3. Hesitation when accelerating
4. Oil level drops quickly
5. Exhaust smell or slight smoke after driving

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Disclaimer

This guide is intended for informational purposes only. Always consult your vehicle’s official service manual or a certified mechanic before performing maintenance. Budget Parts and the author are not responsible for any damage, injury, or loss resulting from the use or misuse of this content. Perform all work at your own risk.