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This collection covers Land Rover and Range Rover hardware and fasteners, including bolts, nuts, washers, clips, rivets, and fixing kits used across chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain assemblies. Fitment depends on thread standard, grade, and application, particularly between Series-era imperial systems and later metric platforms.
Gearchange O-Ring for the automatic transmission gearchange assembly. This O-ring forms a seal at the gearchange selector shaft interface, keeping...
View full detailsGearchange E-Clip for the automatic transmission gearchange linkage. This external E-clip seats in a machined groove on a pivot pin to retain the ...
View full detailsGearchange E-Clip for the automatic transmission gearchange linkage. This external E-clip seats in a machined groove on a pivot or clevis pin to h...
View full detailsGearbox Selector O-Ring is the interlock retainer O-ring used within the LT77 gearbox selector mechanism. It seals around the selector interlock r...
View full detailsGearchange Rod Pin is a pivot pin used in the gearchange rod assembly of the manual gearbox shift linkage. It locates and retains the gearchange r...
View full detailsWasher for the LT95 four-speed gearbox. It is an internal washer within the gearbox assembly.
Stud Bolt for the LT230 transfer box. It clamps a casing joint on the transfer box, securing the main casing and speedometer housing joints.
Spring Pin retains components within the gearbox extension case and gearchange and lever assembly. This roll pin holds a pivot or lever pin in pos...
View full details5th Gear Housing Gasket for the LT85 5-speed manual gearbox. Seals the joint between the fifth-gear housing (rear extension) and the gearbox casin...
View full detailsSpecial Bolt for the LT85 5-speed manual gearbox. Gearbox fastener used within the LT85 assembly. Fitted to the 3.5L V8 petrol application.
Front Door Lock Assembly for the front door latching system, fitted to the right-hand front door on left-hand-drive vehicles. The assembly houses ...
View full detailsFlange Bolt - M12 x 80 mm. Secures the engine mounting. The integral flange spreads clamp load across the mounting bracket face.
M5 Bolt for the transfer box assembly. This fastener secures components within the transfer box and its gear change rod (selector) linkage on manua...
View full detailsPlastic Rivet used to secure interior trim and body panels in position. Push-fit fastener that replaces a lost or damaged original rivet.
Stud for the timing cover (front cover) of the 2.5L 4-cylinder diesel engine. The stud locates and clamps the front cover to the cylinder block, p...
View full detailsExhaust Joint Washer for the exhaust system of the 2.0L 4-cylinder MPi T-Series petrol engine. Seals a flanged exhaust joint to maintain a gas-tig...
View full detailsExhaust Clamp a clamp for the exhaust system on 4-cylinder TDi applications. It secures the joint between two exhaust sections, holding the pipes ...
View full detailsOlive — a compression ferrule used to form a sealed joint in rigid pipework, fitted in the turbocharger pipework of the 2.5-litre six-cylinder dies...
View full detailsGasket seals the joint between the EGR pipe and the inlet manifold. It maintains a gas-tight seal where recirculated exhaust gas enters the inlet ...
View full detailsTappet Adjusting Screw for the 2.5L 200 TDi diesel engine. It threads into the rocker arm on the rocker shaft assembly and bears on the valve stem,...
View full detailsThrust Washer for the crankshaft of the 2.5-litre 300TDi turbo diesel engine. Fitted at the centre main bearing, the thrust washer controls cranks...
View full detailsWater Pump Bolt for the 2.5L 200TDi turbo diesel engine. It secures the coolant pump to the front of the engine. Correct torque is required to seal...
View full detailsOil Pressure Relief Valve Plug seals the oil pressure relief valve bore in the cylinder block of the 300Tdi engine. The plug retains the relief va...
View full detailsSpecial Rivet is a plastic scrivet (screw-type rivet) used as a securing fastener for exterior body trim and wheel-arch components. It seats and re...
View full detailsTorx Pan-Head Screw, M5 x 25. Secures the radiator grille and rear end door casing trim.
Forming Thread Screw is an M6 thread-forming screw. As it is driven into an unthreaded pilot hole, it displaces material to form a matching female...
View full detailsLocking Nut secures the rear backlight (rear window) finisher to the body. The self-locking feature resists loosening under vibration, holding the...
View full detailsWasher forms part of the battery tray lid retention assembly. It provides the seat into which the turnbuckle clip engages: the turnbuckle (DZM1000...
View full detailsRetaining Clip secures the roof spoiler to the body, providing the M6 fixing point that anchors the spoiler in position. It locates over the panel...
View full detailsClamp
Key
Blanking Plug Fills the headlamp washer jet aperture in the front bumper on vehicles not fitted with headlamp washers. It presses into the moulded ...
View full detailsBlanking Plug for the front bumper assembly. Closes an unused aperture at the centre of the front bumper. Black.
Self-Tapping Screw used to secure the rear lamp assemblies - the reflectors, fog lamp and reverse lamp - to the body. The self-tapping thread form...
View full detailsLocking Nut used to secure the facia moulding. The self-locking nut resists loosening under vibration, retaining the facia panel fixing.
Bearing Circlip retains the bearing on the viscous cooling fan shaft within the Td5 2.5L diesel fan drive assembly. It seats in the groove on the ...
View full detailsWiring Harness Clip - clip that retains and routes the wiring harness. Secures the harness to its mounting points, keeping the loom located and pr...
View full detailsGrommet - moulded rubber grommet for a panel or component aperture. Fitted into a drilled or pressed hole to line the opening, it provides a seal ...
View full detailsO-Ring for the R380 five-speed manual gearbox extension case. Seals the oil pump within the gearbox extension housing.
Clip - Tailgate Finisher is a retaining clip for the upper tailgate finisher trim. It secures the finisher panel to the tailgate.
Plastic Clip is a retainer clip for the front windscreen lower finisher trim. It secures the lower plastic finisher panel to the windscreen surround.
Push Pin Clip plastic fir-tree fastener measuring 6.5 x 6 mm. A multi-purpose push-in retainer used to secure interior and exterior trim panels, i...
View full detailsScrew is a fixing screw used to secure exterior lamp, interior lamp and trim components to the body. It retains fittings such as the high-level st...
View full detailsClip - retaining for rubbing strip - rear quarter
Bonnet Clip retaining the bonnet stay rod. This clip holds the bonnet stay (prop rod) securely in its stowed position when the bonnet is closed, p...
View full detailsBonnet Stay Clip - Freelander
Bolt Exhaust manifold fixing bolt, 5/8" UNC x 5-1/2", for the 3.5L V8 petrol engine. Secures the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head within the ...
View full detailsDoor Glass Channel Shim - a spacer used within the front door to set the glass run channel against the window regulator. The shim takes up clearan...
View full detailsA Land Rover is held together by several thousand individual fasteners. Bolts, nuts, washers, clips, and rivets carry structural loads across the chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain. On vehicles used off-road, towed regularly, or stored outdoors, these components see vibration, repeated load cycles, and exposure to mud, road salt, and water. Replacing them with the correct grade and coating during service or rebuild work is part of keeping the vehicle safe and rattle-free.
The Series I, II, and III generation use a mix of imperial Whitworth and UNF threads from the 1948 to 1985 production run, switching to metric on some later Series III assemblies. Defender, Discovery, Range Rover, and Freelander production from 1989 onwards uses metric throughout, with ISO 898-1 property class markings (8.8, 10.9, 12.9) standard across the range. This collection groups fasteners by application: chassis and structural mounts, suspension and steering linkages, body panels and bulkhead, brake and underbody, and interior trim. Use the filter to narrow by model or part category.
Categories on this pageFive main groups cover the parts in this collection.
Bolts, nuts, and studs. Standard threaded fasteners across the vehicle. Suspension arm bolts, engine mount studs, gearbox crossmember bolts, body-to-chassis mounts. Grade is selected to ISO 898-1 property classes: 8.8 and 10.9 are the most common in chassis and suspension applications on Defender, Discovery, and Range Rover, with 12.9 used where higher tensile strength is required. Stainless variants (A2 and A4) appear in body and interior locations where corrosion resistance matters more than peak tensile strength.
Washers and spacers. Plain washers, spring washers, locking washers, and shim spacers. These distribute clamping load, prevent galling on softer surfaces, and resist loosening from vibration. Mismatched or missing washers are a common cause of post-rebuild rattles and slow joint fatigue.
Clips, clamps, and rivets. Wiring harness clips, hose and pipe clamps, body panel rivets, and bulkhead fixings. The Freelander 1 and Freelander 2 use a high proportion of plastic clip fixings on the interior trim and underbonnet wiring; most are single-use and break on removal. Rivets are non-serviceable once set and must be drilled out to remove.
Fixing kits. Pre-grouped sets of fasteners for specific repair sections. Bulkhead repair kits, door hinge sets, body mount kits, suspension rebuild kits. Useful where a single specification list covers an entire repair area and individual SKU lookup would be slow.
Specialist fixings. Torque-to-yield bolts, single-use stretch bolts, lock nuts with metal or nylon inserts, and vibration-resistant hardware. These are called out in the Land Rover workshop manual for specific applications and should be replaced with new parts rather than reused.
Selection guideThree rules cover most situations.
For load-bearing chassis, suspension, and drivetrain work, use property class 8.8 or 10.9 carbon-steel bolts unless the workshop manual specifies a different grade. Property class 12.9 is reserved for applications where the manual calls for it. Carbon-steel bolts in exposed underbody locations need a corrosion-resistant coating: zinc plating is the most common, with phosphate or geomet coatings used where coating thickness matters for torque accuracy.
For body panels, interior fittings, and any joint between dissimilar metals, A2 (304-grade) or A4 (316-grade) stainless is the standard choice. A4 has better salt-water resistance and is the better option for coastal use or recovery vehicles.
For brake and steering hardware, follow the manual. These are safety-critical and frequently specify exact part numbers rather than generic grade equivalents. Mixing a stainless bolt into a brake assembly is rarely correct.
When ordering hardware for a Series I, II, or early Series III, confirm thread standard before adding to cart. Imperial Whitworth and UNF threads dominate on pre-1980 production, and modern metric replacements will not engage correctly. Restoration suppliers typically list thread standard alongside the part description, so check before ordering.
Mixing materials matters. Stainless and aluminium in direct contact, with road salt as the electrolyte, sets up galvanic corrosion that eats the aluminium. Anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the joint slows this significantly.
Fastener property class designations (8.8, 10.9, 12.9, A2, A4) are defined in the ISO 898-1 mechanical properties standard, which sets minimum proof load, tensile strength, and hardness requirements for each class.
Four checks reduce the risk of ordering the wrong fastener for the job.
Hardware in this collection is used throughout Land Rover and Range Rover vehicles. Common applications by category:
Three guides cover repair areas where hardware selection and torque specification matter for the result.
The rear crossmember is a known corrosion point and a regular APK failure cause. Repair sections fit with new fasteners and require the right grade for the load path.
Discovery 2 rear crossmember repair guideBall joint work on Discovery 3, Discovery 4, and Range Rover Sport involves pinch bolts, castle nuts, and cotter pins that are commonly single-use. Diagnostic guide covers symptoms and replacement hardware.
Land Rover ball joint diagnosis and replacementRestoration and off-road preparation work brings the full hardware inventory into play: chassis fixings, body mount renewals, recovery point bolts, spare hardware to carry.
Defender 90 off-road prep and spares guideFor load-bearing and safety-critical fasteners (suspension, brakes, steering, drivetrain mounting), use Genuine or OEM. These are produced to Land Rover's material grade, dimensional, and torque tolerance specifications, which matters for joints that carry road load or yield under torque. For non-critical body and interior fixings (trim clips, panel screws, low-load brackets), well-specified aftermarket fasteners that match the original property class and coating are commonly used and perform reliably. The deciding factor is the load path, not the brand on the box.
ISO 898-1 specifies minimum tensile and yield strength for each property class. Grade 8.8 carbon-steel bolts have a minimum tensile strength of 800 MPa and minimum yield strength of 640 MPa in the M5 to M16 range. Grade 10.9 minimum tensile is 1040 MPa, and grade 12.9 minimum tensile is 1220 MPa. For Land Rover chassis and suspension applications the workshop manual normally specifies 8.8 or 10.9. Grade 12.9 is reserved for applications that explicitly call for it.
No. Series I, II, and pre-1980 Series III production uses imperial Whitworth and UNF threads inherited from the 1948 to 1985 production run. Defender from 1983 onwards, Discovery from 1989, Range Rover, and Freelander all use metric threads to ISO standards. Imperial and metric of the same nominal diameter look similar but will cross-thread if mixed. Restoration suppliers list thread standard alongside Series-era parts; confirm before ordering.
Some can be reused, some cannot. Many factory bolts in suspension, drivetrain, and engine mounting positions are torque-to-yield: they stretch into their plastic deformation range when first torqued and lose accuracy if reused. The Land Rover workshop manual marks these as single-use. Standard non-yield bolts in low-stress positions can usually be reused if threads, head, and shank are undamaged and any locking compound is cleaned off.
Zinc plating gives carbon-steel bolts moderate corrosion resistance and is the most common coating on underbody Land Rover hardware. Stainless steel (A2 grade is 304, A4 grade is 316) gives higher corrosion resistance and is preferred for body panels, interior fittings, and coastal-use vehicles, with A4 being the better choice for salt-air exposure. Black oxide is a thin conversion coating used mainly on interior and low-exposure parts; it offers minimal corrosion protection on its own and is usually paired with an oil film.
Galvanic corrosion happens when two metals with different electrochemical potentials sit in direct contact with an electrolyte (water with road salt or mud). Aluminium loses material to steel under those conditions. To slow it down: clean both surfaces before assembly, apply anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the contact face, and where possible use a nylon or fibre washer to isolate the two metals. This is especially relevant on alloy suspension components and aluminium body panels secured by steel hardware.
A fixing kit groups every fastener needed for a specific repair section into a single bagged set. Common examples include bulkhead repair kits, body mount renewal kits, door hinge sets, and suspension overhaul kits. Kits are worth buying when a single repair touches multiple fastener types and sizes: it removes the SKU-by-SKU lookup, ensures the right grade is used across the joint set, and usually costs less than buying each fastener individually. For single-bolt replacements, individual parts are normally the better route.
Updated: May 2026