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This collection covers Land Rover and Range Rover hardware and fasteners, including bolts, nuts, washers, clips, rivets, and fixing kits used across chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain assemblies. Fitment depends on thread standard, grade, and application, particularly between Series-era imperial systems and later metric platforms.
Spacer is the camshaft gear drive spacer for the Rover V8 engine. Fitted on the camshaft, it sets the axial position of the camshaft drive gear wi...
View full detailsSpecial Nut for the 2.25L diesel engine sump. Used where the sump is fitted with a baffle plate and the matching special studs.
Shouldered Stud
Conrod Nut
Locking Wheel Nut & Key Kit secures the steel road wheels against theft. The locking nuts replace the standard steel wheel nuts and are cut to...
View full detailsTailgate Striker Grommet is a sealing grommet fitted at the upper striker location of the tailgate assembly. It seals the panel aperture around th...
View full detailsDoor Trim Retaining Clip is a cup-type fastener that secures the interior door casing to the door frame. The clip locates in the trim panel and pu...
View full detailsInsert
Plastic Drive Rivet - Plenum Grille for the Freelander 1 (L314). This push-in plastic drive rivet secures the plenum grille panel located in the s...
View full detailsScrew A threaded mechanical fastener used to secure and join components within a Land Rover assembly.
Fitment: 2005 - 2009
Rear Wheel Arch Moulding Washer for the Discovery 3 (L319) and Discovery 4 (L319). This washer is used in the fixing arrangement that secures the ...
View full detailsWasher used with the rear bumper moulding fixings. Spreads clamping load at the moulding fastening on the rear bumper assembly.
Clip retaining rear body mouldings to the body, including the rear wheel arch moulding and front door cladding. A push-in plastic clip; sold indiv...
View full detailsClip for the headlamp washer system. Retains the headlamp washer jet to the bumper.
Locking Nut, a self-locking fixing used across body trim, door casings and bumper fixings. The locking feature resists loosening under vibration.
Towing Eye Cover for the rear bumper, finished in anthracite black. The cover fits over the rear bumper towing eye aperture to complete the bumper...
View full detailsNeck Filler Grommet - a moulded rubber grommet for the filler neck. The grommet seals and locates the filler neck where it passes through the body...
View full detailsFront Brake Calliper Bolt - a fixing within the front brake assembly. This bolt secures the front brake calliper to the hub carrier, clamping the ...
View full detailsFlanged Head Screw - a threaded fastener with an integral flange formed beneath the head. The flange spreads clamping load across a wider bearing ...
View full detailsAir-to-Coil Conversion Fitting Kit - the mounting hardware needed when converting the rear air suspension to coil springs, supplied without the spr...
View full detailsRear Door Goal Post Cladding - Safari is a three-piece exterior trim set for the rear door goal-post surround. It clads the upper goal-post and pi...
View full detailsDouble-DIN Radio Fascia Kit for fitting an aftermarket double-DIN head unit in place of the factory radio. The kit contains the double-DIN fascia ...
View full detailsSwivel Pin Kit overhauls the upper swivel pins of the front axle swivel housings, the pivots the housings turn on for steering. Worn upper pins an...
View full detailsTow Hitch Locking Pin (R-Clip) is the spring-steel retaining clip that secures the tow pin in an adjustable tow hitch. It pushes through the hole i...
View full detailsTowing Bracket Slider Lock Pin is the pin that locks the vertical slider of a Dixon Bate adjustable-height towing bracket at the selected height. ...
View full detailsTowing Hitch Pin is the 25mm locking pin for the Dixon Bate 3.5 tonne ball, jaw and pin hitch (DA2123 / RTC8159), retaining the coupling jaw closed...
View full detailsReduce mud splashes and dirt buildup with these Dirt D-Fenders, designed for Land Rover Defender 90, 110, and 130 models. These smooth-finish D-Fen...
View full detailsScrew - M5 x 20mm is a retaining screw for the exterior door mirror, securing the mirror body to its door mounting. It is supplied with an integra...
View full detailsRetaining Lock Clip that secures the operating link to the door latch mechanism. The clip holds the latch linkage rod in position, maintaining the...
View full detailsKey Blank is a replacement key for the vehicle's central-locking and immobiliser system, supplied as a service item to be cut and coded to the indi...
View full detailsKey Blank for the door locks, lockset and steering column / ignition lock. The blank is uncut and must be cut to the individual vehicle. The vehic...
View full detailsClip - Door Mirror & Bodyside Trim is a fastening clip that secures door mirror fittings and bodyside trim mouldings to the body. It retains t...
View full detailsHarness Edge Clip that routes and secures the wiring harness within the facia and centre console area. The clip attaches to a panel edge and retai...
View full detailsSide Window Spacer Block seats within the upper-cab sliding side window assembly. It sets the correct standoff between the window glass and the bo...
View full detailsShouldered Bolt, M6 x 15mm, for the rear door check strap (door stay) assembly. The shoulder provides a smooth bearing surface for the check strap...
View full detailsTorx Pan Head Bolt, M8 x 50. A pan head bolt with a Torx drive recess, used as a body and hinge fixing - including the cable-operated bonnet assem...
View full detailsRetaining Clip securing the plenum finisher panel at the base of the windscreen. The plenum finisher is the trim panel that covers the plenum cham...
View full detailsLock Nut - self-locking threaded fastener used to secure a bolted joint against loosening under vibration. The locking feature maintains clamp loa...
View full detailsSpecial bolt NLA NLA NLA
Quarter-Turn Fastener securing the load space cover in the rear luggage area. The quarter-turn action allows the cover to be released and refitted...
View full detailsTrim Clip - a retaining clip for the A-post (A-pillar) interior trim panel. The clip secures the trim panel to the A-post, locating it against the...
View full detailsDecoke Gasket Set - the set of gaskets required for a top-end decarbonising (decoke) and cylinder head removal, supplied without the cylinder head ...
View full detailsWindow Regulator Clip is a retaining clip within the side door window regulator assembly. It secures the link between the winder mechanism and the...
View full detailsSuspension Arm Bolt Kit for the rear upper suspension arm. This fitting kit supplies the mounting fasteners that secure the rear upper suspension ...
View full detailsHead Bolt Kit - 2.4 Puma Diesel for the cylinder head of the 2.4 litre Puma (TDCi Duratorq) diesel engine. This kit supplies the full set of cylin...
View full detailsCylinder Head Bolt Kit for the 2.2L Puma (TDCi) turbo diesel engine. Contains the full set of cylinder head bolts that secure the cylinder head to...
View full detailsGearbox Bearing Kit - LT77 - Suffix A-E for overhaul of the LT77 gearbox. This kit supplies the bearings required to rebuild the LT77 five-speed m...
View full detailsA Land Rover is held together by several thousand individual fasteners. Bolts, nuts, washers, clips, and rivets carry structural loads across the chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain. On vehicles used off-road, towed regularly, or stored outdoors, these components see vibration, repeated load cycles, and exposure to mud, road salt, and water. Replacing them with the correct grade and coating during service or rebuild work is part of keeping the vehicle safe and rattle-free.
The Series I, II, and III generation use a mix of imperial Whitworth and UNF threads from the 1948 to 1985 production run, switching to metric on some later Series III assemblies. Defender, Discovery, Range Rover, and Freelander production from 1989 onwards uses metric throughout, with ISO 898-1 property class markings (8.8, 10.9, 12.9) standard across the range. This collection groups fasteners by application: chassis and structural mounts, suspension and steering linkages, body panels and bulkhead, brake and underbody, and interior trim. Use the filter to narrow by model or part category.
Categories on this pageFive main groups cover the parts in this collection.
Bolts, nuts, and studs. Standard threaded fasteners across the vehicle. Suspension arm bolts, engine mount studs, gearbox crossmember bolts, body-to-chassis mounts. Grade is selected to ISO 898-1 property classes: 8.8 and 10.9 are the most common in chassis and suspension applications on Defender, Discovery, and Range Rover, with 12.9 used where higher tensile strength is required. Stainless variants (A2 and A4) appear in body and interior locations where corrosion resistance matters more than peak tensile strength.
Washers and spacers. Plain washers, spring washers, locking washers, and shim spacers. These distribute clamping load, prevent galling on softer surfaces, and resist loosening from vibration. Mismatched or missing washers are a common cause of post-rebuild rattles and slow joint fatigue.
Clips, clamps, and rivets. Wiring harness clips, hose and pipe clamps, body panel rivets, and bulkhead fixings. The Freelander 1 and Freelander 2 use a high proportion of plastic clip fixings on the interior trim and underbonnet wiring; most are single-use and break on removal. Rivets are non-serviceable once set and must be drilled out to remove.
Fixing kits. Pre-grouped sets of fasteners for specific repair sections. Bulkhead repair kits, door hinge sets, body mount kits, suspension rebuild kits. Useful where a single specification list covers an entire repair area and individual SKU lookup would be slow.
Specialist fixings. Torque-to-yield bolts, single-use stretch bolts, lock nuts with metal or nylon inserts, and vibration-resistant hardware. These are called out in the Land Rover workshop manual for specific applications and should be replaced with new parts rather than reused.
Selection guideThree rules cover most situations.
For load-bearing chassis, suspension, and drivetrain work, use property class 8.8 or 10.9 carbon-steel bolts unless the workshop manual specifies a different grade. Property class 12.9 is reserved for applications where the manual calls for it. Carbon-steel bolts in exposed underbody locations need a corrosion-resistant coating: zinc plating is the most common, with phosphate or geomet coatings used where coating thickness matters for torque accuracy.
For body panels, interior fittings, and any joint between dissimilar metals, A2 (304-grade) or A4 (316-grade) stainless is the standard choice. A4 has better salt-water resistance and is the better option for coastal use or recovery vehicles.
For brake and steering hardware, follow the manual. These are safety-critical and frequently specify exact part numbers rather than generic grade equivalents. Mixing a stainless bolt into a brake assembly is rarely correct.
When ordering hardware for a Series I, II, or early Series III, confirm thread standard before adding to cart. Imperial Whitworth and UNF threads dominate on pre-1980 production, and modern metric replacements will not engage correctly. Restoration suppliers typically list thread standard alongside the part description, so check before ordering.
Mixing materials matters. Stainless and aluminium in direct contact, with road salt as the electrolyte, sets up galvanic corrosion that eats the aluminium. Anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the joint slows this significantly.
Fastener property class designations (8.8, 10.9, 12.9, A2, A4) are defined in the ISO 898-1 mechanical properties standard, which sets minimum proof load, tensile strength, and hardness requirements for each class.
Four checks reduce the risk of ordering the wrong fastener for the job.
Hardware in this collection is used throughout Land Rover and Range Rover vehicles. Common applications by category:
Three guides cover repair areas where hardware selection and torque specification matter for the result.
The rear crossmember is a known corrosion point and a regular APK failure cause. Repair sections fit with new fasteners and require the right grade for the load path.
Discovery 2 rear crossmember repair guideBall joint work on Discovery 3, Discovery 4, and Range Rover Sport involves pinch bolts, castle nuts, and cotter pins that are commonly single-use. Diagnostic guide covers symptoms and replacement hardware.
Land Rover ball joint diagnosis and replacementRestoration and off-road preparation work brings the full hardware inventory into play: chassis fixings, body mount renewals, recovery point bolts, spare hardware to carry.
Defender 90 off-road prep and spares guideFor load-bearing and safety-critical fasteners (suspension, brakes, steering, drivetrain mounting), use Genuine or OEM. These are produced to Land Rover's material grade, dimensional, and torque tolerance specifications, which matters for joints that carry road load or yield under torque. For non-critical body and interior fixings (trim clips, panel screws, low-load brackets), well-specified aftermarket fasteners that match the original property class and coating are commonly used and perform reliably. The deciding factor is the load path, not the brand on the box.
ISO 898-1 specifies minimum tensile and yield strength for each property class. Grade 8.8 carbon-steel bolts have a minimum tensile strength of 800 MPa and minimum yield strength of 640 MPa in the M5 to M16 range. Grade 10.9 minimum tensile is 1040 MPa, and grade 12.9 minimum tensile is 1220 MPa. For Land Rover chassis and suspension applications the workshop manual normally specifies 8.8 or 10.9. Grade 12.9 is reserved for applications that explicitly call for it.
No. Series I, II, and pre-1980 Series III production uses imperial Whitworth and UNF threads inherited from the 1948 to 1985 production run. Defender from 1983 onwards, Discovery from 1989, Range Rover, and Freelander all use metric threads to ISO standards. Imperial and metric of the same nominal diameter look similar but will cross-thread if mixed. Restoration suppliers list thread standard alongside Series-era parts; confirm before ordering.
Some can be reused, some cannot. Many factory bolts in suspension, drivetrain, and engine mounting positions are torque-to-yield: they stretch into their plastic deformation range when first torqued and lose accuracy if reused. The Land Rover workshop manual marks these as single-use. Standard non-yield bolts in low-stress positions can usually be reused if threads, head, and shank are undamaged and any locking compound is cleaned off.
Zinc plating gives carbon-steel bolts moderate corrosion resistance and is the most common coating on underbody Land Rover hardware. Stainless steel (A2 grade is 304, A4 grade is 316) gives higher corrosion resistance and is preferred for body panels, interior fittings, and coastal-use vehicles, with A4 being the better choice for salt-air exposure. Black oxide is a thin conversion coating used mainly on interior and low-exposure parts; it offers minimal corrosion protection on its own and is usually paired with an oil film.
Galvanic corrosion happens when two metals with different electrochemical potentials sit in direct contact with an electrolyte (water with road salt or mud). Aluminium loses material to steel under those conditions. To slow it down: clean both surfaces before assembly, apply anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the contact face, and where possible use a nylon or fibre washer to isolate the two metals. This is especially relevant on alloy suspension components and aluminium body panels secured by steel hardware.
A fixing kit groups every fastener needed for a specific repair section into a single bagged set. Common examples include bulkhead repair kits, body mount renewal kits, door hinge sets, and suspension overhaul kits. Kits are worth buying when a single repair touches multiple fastener types and sizes: it removes the SKU-by-SKU lookup, ensures the right grade is used across the joint set, and usually costs less than buying each fastener individually. For single-bolt replacements, individual parts are normally the better route.
Updated: May 2026