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This collection covers Land Rover and Range Rover hardware and fasteners, including bolts, nuts, washers, clips, rivets, and fixing kits used across chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain assemblies. Fitment depends on thread standard, grade, and application, particularly between Series-era imperial systems and later metric platforms.
Cylinder Head Gasket for the 2.5L 200/300 TDi turbo diesel engine, sealing the joint between the cylinder head and the engine block. It seals the ...
View full detailsConnecting Rod Bolt for the engine bottom end, clamping the big-end bearing cap to the connecting rod around the crankshaft journal. Working as a ...
View full detailsLock Nut secures the tappet adjuster screw on the rocker shaft, holding the valve clearance once it has been set. Tightened against the rocker arm...
View full detailsCrankshaft Pulley Bolt for the 2.5L 300TDi diesel engine. This bolt secures the crankshaft pulley and torsional vibration damper to the nose of the...
View full detailsThrottle Potentiometer Gasket seals the throttle position sensor (throttle potentiometer) to the throttle body on the V8 EFI system. It forms the ...
View full detailsOil Filter Gasket for the four-cylinder 2.25L/2.5L petrol and 2.5L naturally aspirated diesel engines, part of the engine lubrication circuit. The...
View full detailsRocker Shaft Clamp for the cylinder head valve train on the 300TDi 2.5L turbo diesel engine. Secures the rocker shaft to the cylinder head pedesta...
View full detailsPlenum Chamber Gasket for the V8 EFI petrol engine, part of the air intake and induction assembly. The gasket seals the joint at the plenum chambe...
View full detailsFlywheel Dowel is a locating dowel that registers the flywheel to the crankshaft rear flange. Pressed into the crankshaft flange, it sets the angu...
View full detailsFlywheel Housing Stud for the 2.5L four-cylinder diesel engine. It secures the flywheel housing to the rear face of the engine, locating the housin...
View full detailsJoint Washer is a sealing washer fitted at a bolted or threaded joint on the 4-cylinder diesel engine, forming a seal between the mating faces to p...
View full detailsCrankshaft Bolt is the retaining bolt that secures the pulley and damper assembly to the nose of the crankshaft on the V8 petrol engine. Threaded ...
View full detailsWiper Arm Pivot Nut Secures the wiper arm to the splined pivot spindle of the windscreen wiper mechanism. It threads onto the spindle where it emer...
View full detailsFront Electric Window Kit converts the front door windows from manual wind-up to push-button electric operation. The kit provides the electric win...
View full detailsScrew Kit - Grille & Heater Inlet is a set of stainless steel fasteners for securing the front grille and the heater inlet panel to the front b...
View full detailsHeadlight Panel Screw Kit in stainless steel, for fixing the front headlight surround panels to the bodywork. The kit contains four 8 x 13 mm self...
View full detailsPedal Clutch Bearing
Screw - Bonnet Hinge - M6 x 20 for the bonnet hinge assembly on the Defender. This M6 x 20 Torx-head screw secures the bonnet hinge. Used on vehic...
View full detailsRear Door Hinge Bolt - Lower - Torx 95mm is a 95 mm Torx-head bolt used at the lower fixing point of the rear side door hinge and check strap. It ...
View full detailsHex-Head Bolt with a 7/16" UNF (Unified National Fine) imperial thread and a 2" shank length. A fastener used in the manual steering box mounting ...
View full detailsBolt - M10 x 130mm is a hex-headed metric fastener with a 10 mm nominal thread diameter and a 130 mm shank length. It serves as a general mounting...
View full detailsBolt - Lower Steering Shaft UJ is the M8 x 35 mm clamp bolt that secures the universal joint at the lower steering shaft, within the steering colum...
View full detailsWing Fixing Bolt for the front wing assembly, securing the outer wing panel to the inner wing structure. Clamps the outer wing to the inner wing a...
View full detailsAnti-Roll Bar is the rear stabiliser bar within the suspension system, mounted transversely across the rear axle. Connected to the suspension thro...
View full detailsFront door latch link
Clip Nut - a spring clip nut for securing heater and air ducting components. It clips over a panel edge or flange to provide a threaded seat for a...
View full detailsG-Hook - a hook fitting for the soft top drain channel. It anchors and tensions the drain channel that runs along the soft top, holding the channe...
View full detailsNut - M10 is an M10 fixing nut for general assembly and repair use across the vehicle. It threads onto an M10 stud or bolt to secure a fastened jo...
View full detailsLocking Nut - a push-on locking nut for securing interior trim and ducting. It pushes onto a stud or screw thread and grips to hold the fixing cap...
View full detailsseal washer for block coolant drain plug. - All 4-cylinder engines upto 1998 (except VM diesel)
Sealing Washer for the cylinder block oil jet adaptor on the 2.5L 4-cylinder diesel engine. Seals the jet adaptor against the cylinder block. Fitt...
View full detailsDrop Arm Nut for the Gemmer 6-bolt steering box on the Defender 90/110 and Range Rover Classic. This hex nut secures the steering drop arm to the ...
View full detailsVacuum Pump O-Ring that seals the diesel vacuum pump at its mounting joint. The vacuum pump supplies the depression used by the brake servo on die...
View full detailsDrive Screw is a countersunk-head self-tapping screw used to secure body and interior trim components. The self-tapping thread cuts its own mating...
View full detailsSelf-Tapping Screw, size No. 6 x 3/8", for the door glass and window regulator assembly. This screw secures the window glass run channel to the do...
View full detailsScrew - No.10 x 1" Pan head, self-tapping, pointed fastener used in door trim and window regulator assemblies. It secures the interior grab handle...
View full detailsPan Head Screw for use in the interior trim and body panel assembly of the Defender 90 and 110. This black-finished self-tapping pan head screw (N...
View full detailsScrew - a No. 6 x 1" self-tapping screw used to secure interior and body trim. It fixes A-pillar trim, roof trim and body trim panels, forming its...
View full detailsCamshaft Bearing Set comprises the plain bearing shells that support the camshaft within the cylinder block of the four-cylinder engine. The beari...
View full detailsCylinder Head to Block Stud for the four-cylinder diesel engines - 2.25L and 2.5L naturally-aspirated. The stud threads into the cylinder block dec...
View full detailsGearbox Thrust Washer
Union Nut for the fuel pipe in the fuel delivery system. This M12 union nut clamps a fuel pipe to its mating union or component port, drawing the ...
View full detailsBolt & Lockwasher for securing the inlet manifold on the V8 petrol engine. Supplied as a bolt with its matching lockwasher. The imperial 5/16"...
View full detailsEngine Stud - a threaded manifold stud fitted to the exhaust system of the diesel engine. It threads into the cylinder head to provide a fixed anc...
View full detailsBanjo Bolt secures the breather pipe to an axle, gearbox or transfer case housing. The bolt is drilled through its shank and head so that, clamped...
View full detailsBolt
Mainshaft - Series 3
Oil Filter Gearbox
A Land Rover is held together by several thousand individual fasteners. Bolts, nuts, washers, clips, and rivets carry structural loads across the chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain. On vehicles used off-road, towed regularly, or stored outdoors, these components see vibration, repeated load cycles, and exposure to mud, road salt, and water. Replacing them with the correct grade and coating during service or rebuild work is part of keeping the vehicle safe and rattle-free.
The Series I, II, and III generation use a mix of imperial Whitworth and UNF threads from the 1948 to 1985 production run, switching to metric on some later Series III assemblies. Defender, Discovery, Range Rover, and Freelander production from 1989 onwards uses metric throughout, with ISO 898-1 property class markings (8.8, 10.9, 12.9) standard across the range. This collection groups fasteners by application: chassis and structural mounts, suspension and steering linkages, body panels and bulkhead, brake and underbody, and interior trim. Use the filter to narrow by model or part category.
Categories on this pageFive main groups cover the parts in this collection.
Bolts, nuts, and studs. Standard threaded fasteners across the vehicle. Suspension arm bolts, engine mount studs, gearbox crossmember bolts, body-to-chassis mounts. Grade is selected to ISO 898-1 property classes: 8.8 and 10.9 are the most common in chassis and suspension applications on Defender, Discovery, and Range Rover, with 12.9 used where higher tensile strength is required. Stainless variants (A2 and A4) appear in body and interior locations where corrosion resistance matters more than peak tensile strength.
Washers and spacers. Plain washers, spring washers, locking washers, and shim spacers. These distribute clamping load, prevent galling on softer surfaces, and resist loosening from vibration. Mismatched or missing washers are a common cause of post-rebuild rattles and slow joint fatigue.
Clips, clamps, and rivets. Wiring harness clips, hose and pipe clamps, body panel rivets, and bulkhead fixings. The Freelander 1 and Freelander 2 use a high proportion of plastic clip fixings on the interior trim and underbonnet wiring; most are single-use and break on removal. Rivets are non-serviceable once set and must be drilled out to remove.
Fixing kits. Pre-grouped sets of fasteners for specific repair sections. Bulkhead repair kits, door hinge sets, body mount kits, suspension rebuild kits. Useful where a single specification list covers an entire repair area and individual SKU lookup would be slow.
Specialist fixings. Torque-to-yield bolts, single-use stretch bolts, lock nuts with metal or nylon inserts, and vibration-resistant hardware. These are called out in the Land Rover workshop manual for specific applications and should be replaced with new parts rather than reused.
Selection guideThree rules cover most situations.
For load-bearing chassis, suspension, and drivetrain work, use property class 8.8 or 10.9 carbon-steel bolts unless the workshop manual specifies a different grade. Property class 12.9 is reserved for applications where the manual calls for it. Carbon-steel bolts in exposed underbody locations need a corrosion-resistant coating: zinc plating is the most common, with phosphate or geomet coatings used where coating thickness matters for torque accuracy.
For body panels, interior fittings, and any joint between dissimilar metals, A2 (304-grade) or A4 (316-grade) stainless is the standard choice. A4 has better salt-water resistance and is the better option for coastal use or recovery vehicles.
For brake and steering hardware, follow the manual. These are safety-critical and frequently specify exact part numbers rather than generic grade equivalents. Mixing a stainless bolt into a brake assembly is rarely correct.
When ordering hardware for a Series I, II, or early Series III, confirm thread standard before adding to cart. Imperial Whitworth and UNF threads dominate on pre-1980 production, and modern metric replacements will not engage correctly. Restoration suppliers typically list thread standard alongside the part description, so check before ordering.
Mixing materials matters. Stainless and aluminium in direct contact, with road salt as the electrolyte, sets up galvanic corrosion that eats the aluminium. Anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the joint slows this significantly.
Fastener property class designations (8.8, 10.9, 12.9, A2, A4) are defined in the ISO 898-1 mechanical properties standard, which sets minimum proof load, tensile strength, and hardness requirements for each class.
Four checks reduce the risk of ordering the wrong fastener for the job.
Hardware in this collection is used throughout Land Rover and Range Rover vehicles. Common applications by category:
Three guides cover repair areas where hardware selection and torque specification matter for the result.
The rear crossmember is a known corrosion point and a regular APK failure cause. Repair sections fit with new fasteners and require the right grade for the load path.
Discovery 2 rear crossmember repair guideBall joint work on Discovery 3, Discovery 4, and Range Rover Sport involves pinch bolts, castle nuts, and cotter pins that are commonly single-use. Diagnostic guide covers symptoms and replacement hardware.
Land Rover ball joint diagnosis and replacementRestoration and off-road preparation work brings the full hardware inventory into play: chassis fixings, body mount renewals, recovery point bolts, spare hardware to carry.
Defender 90 off-road prep and spares guideFor load-bearing and safety-critical fasteners (suspension, brakes, steering, drivetrain mounting), use Genuine or OEM. These are produced to Land Rover's material grade, dimensional, and torque tolerance specifications, which matters for joints that carry road load or yield under torque. For non-critical body and interior fixings (trim clips, panel screws, low-load brackets), well-specified aftermarket fasteners that match the original property class and coating are commonly used and perform reliably. The deciding factor is the load path, not the brand on the box.
ISO 898-1 specifies minimum tensile and yield strength for each property class. Grade 8.8 carbon-steel bolts have a minimum tensile strength of 800 MPa and minimum yield strength of 640 MPa in the M5 to M16 range. Grade 10.9 minimum tensile is 1040 MPa, and grade 12.9 minimum tensile is 1220 MPa. For Land Rover chassis and suspension applications the workshop manual normally specifies 8.8 or 10.9. Grade 12.9 is reserved for applications that explicitly call for it.
No. Series I, II, and pre-1980 Series III production uses imperial Whitworth and UNF threads inherited from the 1948 to 1985 production run. Defender from 1983 onwards, Discovery from 1989, Range Rover, and Freelander all use metric threads to ISO standards. Imperial and metric of the same nominal diameter look similar but will cross-thread if mixed. Restoration suppliers list thread standard alongside Series-era parts; confirm before ordering.
Some can be reused, some cannot. Many factory bolts in suspension, drivetrain, and engine mounting positions are torque-to-yield: they stretch into their plastic deformation range when first torqued and lose accuracy if reused. The Land Rover workshop manual marks these as single-use. Standard non-yield bolts in low-stress positions can usually be reused if threads, head, and shank are undamaged and any locking compound is cleaned off.
Zinc plating gives carbon-steel bolts moderate corrosion resistance and is the most common coating on underbody Land Rover hardware. Stainless steel (A2 grade is 304, A4 grade is 316) gives higher corrosion resistance and is preferred for body panels, interior fittings, and coastal-use vehicles, with A4 being the better choice for salt-air exposure. Black oxide is a thin conversion coating used mainly on interior and low-exposure parts; it offers minimal corrosion protection on its own and is usually paired with an oil film.
Galvanic corrosion happens when two metals with different electrochemical potentials sit in direct contact with an electrolyte (water with road salt or mud). Aluminium loses material to steel under those conditions. To slow it down: clean both surfaces before assembly, apply anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the contact face, and where possible use a nylon or fibre washer to isolate the two metals. This is especially relevant on alloy suspension components and aluminium body panels secured by steel hardware.
A fixing kit groups every fastener needed for a specific repair section into a single bagged set. Common examples include bulkhead repair kits, body mount renewal kits, door hinge sets, and suspension overhaul kits. Kits are worth buying when a single repair touches multiple fastener types and sizes: it removes the SKU-by-SKU lookup, ensures the right grade is used across the joint set, and usually costs less than buying each fastener individually. For single-bolt replacements, individual parts are normally the better route.
Updated: May 2026