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This collection covers Land Rover and Range Rover hardware and fasteners, including bolts, nuts, washers, clips, rivets, and fixing kits used across chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain assemblies. Fitment depends on thread standard, grade, and application, particularly between Series-era imperial systems and later metric platforms.
Split Pin is a 1.5 mm x 10 mm securing pin used to lock a castellated nut or to retain a clevis pin. It passes through a drilled hole, and its two ...
View full detailsGlow Plug Wiring Assembly - the glow plug (heater plug) interconnect harness within the diesel cold-start preheating circuit of the 2.5L 4-cylinder...
View full detailsWasher Bottle - the washer fluid reservoir for the windscreen, rear screen and headlamp wash circuits. It stores the washer fluid and carries the ...
View full detailsConv Grommet
SU Carburettor Intake Gasket seals the joint between an SU carburettor and the inlet manifold on the 3.5L V8 twin-carburettor petrol engine. It mai...
View full detailsSpring Pin for the R380 five-speed manual gearbox, located on the mainshaft at the 5th/reverse position. The slotted, sprung-steel pin is driven t...
View full detailsSpring Pin for the soft-top drain channel assembly. The slotted, sprung-steel pin is driven through aligned bores to retain a component on its shaf...
View full detailsSpring Pin for use in the engine assembly. A cylindrical spring pin (roll pin) used to locate or retain internal components within the engine.
Spring Pin
Nyloc Locknut - M6 - M6 hex nyloc (nylon insert) locknut. The nylon insert grips the bolt thread to resist loosening under vibration without requi...
View full detailsCable Clip for the front axle swivel pin housing. This clip secures and routes the flexible cable along the swivel pin housing, retaining it again...
View full detailsExhaust Pipe Clamp for the front exhaust pipe joint. Clamps the front exhaust pipe at its connection, holding the joint tight and gas-tight agains...
View full detailsExhaust Clamp securing a front exhaust pipe joint. This clamp draws together and seals the joint between two sections of the front exhaust, holdin...
View full detailsBanjo Bolt for diesel fuel pipe connections at the fuel filter. This hollow bolt secures a banjo union to its port, allowing fuel to pass through ...
View full detailsClip for retaining fuel and evaporative-emission pipework on petrol applications. This clip locates and secures the pipes of the evaporative loss ...
View full detailsExhaust U-Bolt secures the exhaust system at its mounting points, clamping the pipe to a bracket or holding adjacent sections of the exhaust line t...
View full detailsP-Clip retaining clamp. This P-shaped clip secures a pipe, hose or wiring run against a panel or bracket. The looped section wraps around the item...
View full detailsWing Nut for the air cleaner assembly. This threaded wing nut secures the air cleaner cover to its centre stud, clamping the cover down to retain ...
View full detailsExhaust Clamp Plate for the front exhaust pipe mounting. The plate clamps the front section of the exhaust at its mounting point, holding the pipe...
View full detailsBlanking Plug closes off an unused aperture in the front bumper and chassis under-ride protection bar. Pushed into an open hole to seal it, the pl...
View full detailsBumper Mounting Spacer sets the standoff between the bumper and its chassis mounting point. It is fitted between the bumper mounting bracket and t...
View full detailsM5 blind rivet nut (nutsert) - a threaded insert for sheet-metal and box-section fixings. The nutsert is placed in a single drilled hole and set w...
View full detailsChannel fitted to the top of the Defender rear side door frame, guiding and retaining the upper edge of the main drop glass as it operates.
Body Trim Plug is a moulded plastic finishing plug that closes a fixing or location aperture in the exterior body trim. Finished in black, it conc...
View full detailsGlazing Strip
Plate Nut - RH for the front door latch striker on the Defender. The plate nut is fixed to the door pillar on the right-hand side and provides the...
View full detailsBattery Clamp J-Bolt is the J-shaped hold-down bolt that secures the battery to its tray. The hooked end locates in the battery tray while the thr...
View full detailsDoor Check Strap Channel is the channel of the front door check strap (checker) assembly. It guides and retains the check strap as the door swings,...
View full detailsHex Nut is an M16 hexagonal fastening nut used to secure threaded studs and bolts in body, chassis and running-gear assemblies.
Window Draught Spacer - a packing spacer fitted behind the side window draught rail. It sets the rail at the correct stand-off from the glass so th...
View full detailsScrew used as a fixing throughout the door hardware assemblies. Four secure the front door latch mechanism; the same screw is specified for the rea...
View full detailsBattery Bolt - a J-shaped hook bolt that secures the battery to its tray. The hooked end engages the lip of the battery tray while the threaded sha...
View full detailsClip
Spare Wheel Carrier U-Bolt - a U-shaped clamping bolt that secures the spare wheel carrier to the rear door. It passes around the carrier mounting...
View full detailsSide Window Screw - fixing screw for the side window assembly. Secures the side window frame and glazing components to the body aperture.
Nut Plate - captive fixing plate used at the rear body upper mountings. The plate holds the nut captive behind a blind or closed panel section, so...
View full detailsFastener Trim Nail used to secure seat trim panels to the seat frame on Land Rover Defender front and centre seat assemblies. This push-fit trim p...
View full detailsRear Seat Clip - a retaining clip in the rear seat assembly, used to secure the seat frame to its mounting. Works alongside the rear seat frame an...
View full detailsWeatherseal for the sliding glass in the front door top frame, part of the door glazing and sealing assembly. The seal runs along the glazing chan...
View full detailsTailgate Hinge Bolt secures the tailgate hinge to the rear body in the tailgate hinge assembly. Used on High Capacity Pick Up (HCPU) body configur...
View full detailsWiper Mechanism Nut Plate for the windscreen wiper assembly. It provides the threaded mounting points that secure the wiper mechanism to the body,...
View full detailsDoor Latch Mechanism Spacer for the rear end door latching assembly. It sets the correct standoff between the latch mechanism and its mounting fac...
View full detailsStud Plate for the front sill channel section. Fitted within the front sill channel, this bolt plate provides captive attachment points for sill o...
View full detailsSpare Wheel Carrier Bolt for a bonnet-mounted spare wheel carrier, securing the wheel clamp to the bonnet mounting. Suits both the bar-type and rin...
View full detailsSealing Washer - 18 mm OD x 12 mm ID is a sealing washer with a 12 mm inner diameter and an 18 mm outer diameter, used to seal threaded unions and ...
View full detailsCylinder Block Plug - sealing plug fitted to the cylinder block casting. The plug closes a machined port in the block, sealing the casting so that...
View full detailsFlywheel Locking Pin is a workshop special tool used to lock the flywheel when setting the diesel injection pump timing on the 200TDi and 300TDi en...
View full detailsFlywheel Timing Pin is a workshop special tool used to lock the flywheel in its reference position when setting the diesel injection pump timing on...
View full detailsA Land Rover is held together by several thousand individual fasteners. Bolts, nuts, washers, clips, and rivets carry structural loads across the chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain. On vehicles used off-road, towed regularly, or stored outdoors, these components see vibration, repeated load cycles, and exposure to mud, road salt, and water. Replacing them with the correct grade and coating during service or rebuild work is part of keeping the vehicle safe and rattle-free.
The Series I, II, and III generation use a mix of imperial Whitworth and UNF threads from the 1948 to 1985 production run, switching to metric on some later Series III assemblies. Defender, Discovery, Range Rover, and Freelander production from 1989 onwards uses metric throughout, with ISO 898-1 property class markings (8.8, 10.9, 12.9) standard across the range. This collection groups fasteners by application: chassis and structural mounts, suspension and steering linkages, body panels and bulkhead, brake and underbody, and interior trim. Use the filter to narrow by model or part category.
Categories on this pageFive main groups cover the parts in this collection.
Bolts, nuts, and studs. Standard threaded fasteners across the vehicle. Suspension arm bolts, engine mount studs, gearbox crossmember bolts, body-to-chassis mounts. Grade is selected to ISO 898-1 property classes: 8.8 and 10.9 are the most common in chassis and suspension applications on Defender, Discovery, and Range Rover, with 12.9 used where higher tensile strength is required. Stainless variants (A2 and A4) appear in body and interior locations where corrosion resistance matters more than peak tensile strength.
Washers and spacers. Plain washers, spring washers, locking washers, and shim spacers. These distribute clamping load, prevent galling on softer surfaces, and resist loosening from vibration. Mismatched or missing washers are a common cause of post-rebuild rattles and slow joint fatigue.
Clips, clamps, and rivets. Wiring harness clips, hose and pipe clamps, body panel rivets, and bulkhead fixings. The Freelander 1 and Freelander 2 use a high proportion of plastic clip fixings on the interior trim and underbonnet wiring; most are single-use and break on removal. Rivets are non-serviceable once set and must be drilled out to remove.
Fixing kits. Pre-grouped sets of fasteners for specific repair sections. Bulkhead repair kits, door hinge sets, body mount kits, suspension rebuild kits. Useful where a single specification list covers an entire repair area and individual SKU lookup would be slow.
Specialist fixings. Torque-to-yield bolts, single-use stretch bolts, lock nuts with metal or nylon inserts, and vibration-resistant hardware. These are called out in the Land Rover workshop manual for specific applications and should be replaced with new parts rather than reused.
Selection guideThree rules cover most situations.
For load-bearing chassis, suspension, and drivetrain work, use property class 8.8 or 10.9 carbon-steel bolts unless the workshop manual specifies a different grade. Property class 12.9 is reserved for applications where the manual calls for it. Carbon-steel bolts in exposed underbody locations need a corrosion-resistant coating: zinc plating is the most common, with phosphate or geomet coatings used where coating thickness matters for torque accuracy.
For body panels, interior fittings, and any joint between dissimilar metals, A2 (304-grade) or A4 (316-grade) stainless is the standard choice. A4 has better salt-water resistance and is the better option for coastal use or recovery vehicles.
For brake and steering hardware, follow the manual. These are safety-critical and frequently specify exact part numbers rather than generic grade equivalents. Mixing a stainless bolt into a brake assembly is rarely correct.
When ordering hardware for a Series I, II, or early Series III, confirm thread standard before adding to cart. Imperial Whitworth and UNF threads dominate on pre-1980 production, and modern metric replacements will not engage correctly. Restoration suppliers typically list thread standard alongside the part description, so check before ordering.
Mixing materials matters. Stainless and aluminium in direct contact, with road salt as the electrolyte, sets up galvanic corrosion that eats the aluminium. Anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the joint slows this significantly.
Fastener property class designations (8.8, 10.9, 12.9, A2, A4) are defined in the ISO 898-1 mechanical properties standard, which sets minimum proof load, tensile strength, and hardness requirements for each class.
Four checks reduce the risk of ordering the wrong fastener for the job.
Hardware in this collection is used throughout Land Rover and Range Rover vehicles. Common applications by category:
Three guides cover repair areas where hardware selection and torque specification matter for the result.
The rear crossmember is a known corrosion point and a regular APK failure cause. Repair sections fit with new fasteners and require the right grade for the load path.
Discovery 2 rear crossmember repair guideBall joint work on Discovery 3, Discovery 4, and Range Rover Sport involves pinch bolts, castle nuts, and cotter pins that are commonly single-use. Diagnostic guide covers symptoms and replacement hardware.
Land Rover ball joint diagnosis and replacementRestoration and off-road preparation work brings the full hardware inventory into play: chassis fixings, body mount renewals, recovery point bolts, spare hardware to carry.
Defender 90 off-road prep and spares guideFor load-bearing and safety-critical fasteners (suspension, brakes, steering, drivetrain mounting), use Genuine or OEM. These are produced to Land Rover's material grade, dimensional, and torque tolerance specifications, which matters for joints that carry road load or yield under torque. For non-critical body and interior fixings (trim clips, panel screws, low-load brackets), well-specified aftermarket fasteners that match the original property class and coating are commonly used and perform reliably. The deciding factor is the load path, not the brand on the box.
ISO 898-1 specifies minimum tensile and yield strength for each property class. Grade 8.8 carbon-steel bolts have a minimum tensile strength of 800 MPa and minimum yield strength of 640 MPa in the M5 to M16 range. Grade 10.9 minimum tensile is 1040 MPa, and grade 12.9 minimum tensile is 1220 MPa. For Land Rover chassis and suspension applications the workshop manual normally specifies 8.8 or 10.9. Grade 12.9 is reserved for applications that explicitly call for it.
No. Series I, II, and pre-1980 Series III production uses imperial Whitworth and UNF threads inherited from the 1948 to 1985 production run. Defender from 1983 onwards, Discovery from 1989, Range Rover, and Freelander all use metric threads to ISO standards. Imperial and metric of the same nominal diameter look similar but will cross-thread if mixed. Restoration suppliers list thread standard alongside Series-era parts; confirm before ordering.
Some can be reused, some cannot. Many factory bolts in suspension, drivetrain, and engine mounting positions are torque-to-yield: they stretch into their plastic deformation range when first torqued and lose accuracy if reused. The Land Rover workshop manual marks these as single-use. Standard non-yield bolts in low-stress positions can usually be reused if threads, head, and shank are undamaged and any locking compound is cleaned off.
Zinc plating gives carbon-steel bolts moderate corrosion resistance and is the most common coating on underbody Land Rover hardware. Stainless steel (A2 grade is 304, A4 grade is 316) gives higher corrosion resistance and is preferred for body panels, interior fittings, and coastal-use vehicles, with A4 being the better choice for salt-air exposure. Black oxide is a thin conversion coating used mainly on interior and low-exposure parts; it offers minimal corrosion protection on its own and is usually paired with an oil film.
Galvanic corrosion happens when two metals with different electrochemical potentials sit in direct contact with an electrolyte (water with road salt or mud). Aluminium loses material to steel under those conditions. To slow it down: clean both surfaces before assembly, apply anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the contact face, and where possible use a nylon or fibre washer to isolate the two metals. This is especially relevant on alloy suspension components and aluminium body panels secured by steel hardware.
A fixing kit groups every fastener needed for a specific repair section into a single bagged set. Common examples include bulkhead repair kits, body mount renewal kits, door hinge sets, and suspension overhaul kits. Kits are worth buying when a single repair touches multiple fastener types and sizes: it removes the SKU-by-SKU lookup, ensures the right grade is used across the joint set, and usually costs less than buying each fastener individually. For single-bolt replacements, individual parts are normally the better route.
Updated: May 2026