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This collection covers Land Rover and Range Rover hardware and fasteners, including bolts, nuts, washers, clips, rivets, and fixing kits used across chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain assemblies. Fitment depends on thread standard, grade, and application, particularly between Series-era imperial systems and later metric platforms.
U-Type Spring Nut for the fascia (dashboard) assembly and mounting brackets. Spring-steel clip-on nut that grips a panel edge to provide a captive...
View full detailsFacia Assembly Fastener - a fastener for mounting the facia assembly to the dash structure. It secures the facia panel in place and is also used t...
View full detailsSelf-Tapping Screw - a No. 14 x 3/4" black button-head self-tapping drive screw used across body and interior trim. It secures the front grille to...
View full detailsScrew - 2BA x 1" is a round head screw in British Association (BA) thread form, 2BA size, 1 inch in length. Used throughout the Series Land Rover ...
View full detailsSpring Clip for the rear end door trim casing, part of the interior trim fixings. The sprung clip retains the rear door card (trim casing) to the ...
View full detailsBlanking Plug for the instrument panel, fitted to close an unused aperture in the dashboard where an instrument, switch or gauge is not installed. ...
View full detailsSelf-Tapping Screw - a fastener that cuts its own thread as it is driven, used in the luggage compartment door finisher and trim assembly. It secu...
View full detailsBlind Anchor Nut - a threaded anchor nut that provides a captive fixing point where the reverse side of the panel is inaccessible. It is used in t...
View full detailsTrim Clip that secures interior and exterior trim panels, door finishers and mouldings to the body. The clip locates in a pre-formed panel apertur...
View full detailsDoor Card Fitting Kit - the fixings that secure a door card (the interior door trim panel) to the door frame. The kit covers a single door, front ...
View full detailsSelf-Adhesive Foam Pad - foam packing pad with a pressure-sensitive adhesive backing, used as an anti-rattle and anti-chafe spacer. At the seat ba...
View full detailsBlanking Plug used to close an unused aperture in body and trim panels. Seals openings such as seat base fitting holes and redundant grommet posit...
View full detailsTrim Clip retains interior trim panels against the body. The clip pushes into a pre-formed aperture in the body panel and holds the trim in place ...
View full detailsSelf-Tapping Screw is a fixing that secures the steering column shroud in place. Being self-tapping, it forms its own thread as it is driven, retai...
View full detailsGear Lever Gaiter Retainer - trim component within the centre console and gear lever assembly that secures the gear lever gaiter to the console. T...
View full detailsTrim Clip (Scrivet) is a two-piece plastic push-fit fastener used to secure trim panels, facia sections, splash shields and other clipped-in compon...
View full detailsDoor Casing Stud - plastic push-fit stud used to secure interior trim panels to the door frame and body structure. The stud passes through the tri...
View full detailsRear Seat Frame Fastener - retaining fastener for the rear seat frame mounting in the load area. Secures the rear row seat frame assembly to its b...
View full detailsTrim Clip, male half, used in the facia and dash trim assembly. The clip is the male part of a two-piece push-fit fastener. It locates in the trim...
View full detailsTrim Clip that secures interior and exterior trim panels, door finishers and mouldings to the body. The clip locates in a pre-formed panel apertur...
View full detailsTrim Clip, male half, used in the facia and dash trim assembly. The clip is the male part of a two-piece push-fit fastener. It locates in the trim...
View full detailsSeat Back Mounting Brackets Mounting brackets that secure the seat back to the body structure. Supplied as a pair.
Fir Tree Clip - a push-fit fastener that secures the door casing (interior door trim panel) to the door. The ribbed, tapered fir-tree stem pushes ...
View full detailsA-Pillar Trim Clip A retaining clip used in the interior A-pillar trim assembly. It secures the A-pillar trim panel to the body structure alongsid...
View full detailsSeal Retainer for the rear door aperture at the tailboard. The retainer is a profiled strip that clamps the rear door weatherseal and the trailing...
View full detailsTrim Clip - retaining clip for interior trim panels. Secures interior trim components such as the instrument panel, glove box and speaker surround...
View full detailsTransfer Gear Knob - High/Low - LT95 is the hand grip fitted to the high/low range transfer lever on the LT95 gearbox. It threads onto the top of ...
View full detailsFusebox Cover Clip - a female retaining clip in the facia trim assembly. It secures the fusebox cover panel to the dashboard, locating onto the cor...
View full detailsTrim Clip - push-fit fastener securing exterior body mouldings, front and rear bumper trim and the radiator grille to the body panels. Renews an o...
View full detailsSpire Nut (U-type spire fastener) for trim and panel fixings. Spring-steel push-on nut that clips over a panel edge or stud to provide a captive f...
View full detailsDoor Casing Stud for the interior door casing assembly. Locating stud onto which the door casing mounts, retaining the trim panel and holding it i...
View full detailsSnap-sac trim clip - the push-in plastic fastener that secures interior trim panels to their supporting structure. The clip passes through a hole ...
View full detailsGrommet - Blanking Plug, Gearbox Tunnel for Land Rover Series II and III. This small rubber blanking plug fits into an aperture in the top of the ...
View full detailsInterior Mirror Screw - the fixing that secures the interior rear-view mirror mounting to the roof panel. This is the long-type screw, used where ...
View full detailsTrim Clip is a fastener used within the loadspace interior trim assembly. It retains the loadspace cover and the lower rear trim panel against the...
View full detailsCoil Spring Rear Ukm
Coil Spring Rear Ukm
Nyloc Locknut - M6 - M6 hex nyloc (nylon insert) locknut. The nylon insert grips the bolt thread to resist loosening under vibration without requi...
View full detailsFastener Trim Nail used to secure seat trim panels to the seat frame on Land Rover Defender front and centre seat assemblies. This push-fit trim p...
View full detailsLuggage Compartment Tie-Down Hook for the load area. It provides a fixed anchor point in the cargo floor for securing luggage and loose items with ...
View full detailsTorx Pan-Head Screw, M5 x 25. Secures the radiator grille and rear end door casing trim.
Double-DIN Radio Fascia Kit for fitting an aftermarket double-DIN head unit in place of the factory radio. The kit contains the double-DIN fascia ...
View full detailsLocking Nut used to secure the facia moulding. The self-locking nut resists loosening under vibration, retaining the facia panel fixing.
Screw used in the facia (dashboard) assembly. Secures facia and trim components within the dashboard structure.
Screw - No. 10 x 1 in. Secures the instrument binnacle cowl and interior air-deflector trim. Sized for self-tapping installation into moulded trim...
View full detailsLocking Nut a self-locking fastener used to retain the interior door casing within the door trim assembly. The locking feature holds the casing fi...
View full detailsScrew for securing the window catch on Series hard top body variants. Used in the hard top glazing and catch assembly to retain the window catch m...
View full detailsSill Finisher Spacer packs out the interior sill finisher, part of the door sill trim and tread plate assembly. The spacer sits behind the sill fi...
View full detailsA Land Rover is held together by several thousand individual fasteners. Bolts, nuts, washers, clips, and rivets carry structural loads across the chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain. On vehicles used off-road, towed regularly, or stored outdoors, these components see vibration, repeated load cycles, and exposure to mud, road salt, and water. Replacing them with the correct grade and coating during service or rebuild work is part of keeping the vehicle safe and rattle-free.
The Series I, II, and III generation use a mix of imperial Whitworth and UNF threads from the 1948 to 1985 production run, switching to metric on some later Series III assemblies. Defender, Discovery, Range Rover, and Freelander production from 1989 onwards uses metric throughout, with ISO 898-1 property class markings (8.8, 10.9, 12.9) standard across the range. This collection groups fasteners by application: chassis and structural mounts, suspension and steering linkages, body panels and bulkhead, brake and underbody, and interior trim. Use the filter to narrow by model or part category.
Categories on this pageFive main groups cover the parts in this collection.
Bolts, nuts, and studs. Standard threaded fasteners across the vehicle. Suspension arm bolts, engine mount studs, gearbox crossmember bolts, body-to-chassis mounts. Grade is selected to ISO 898-1 property classes: 8.8 and 10.9 are the most common in chassis and suspension applications on Defender, Discovery, and Range Rover, with 12.9 used where higher tensile strength is required. Stainless variants (A2 and A4) appear in body and interior locations where corrosion resistance matters more than peak tensile strength.
Washers and spacers. Plain washers, spring washers, locking washers, and shim spacers. These distribute clamping load, prevent galling on softer surfaces, and resist loosening from vibration. Mismatched or missing washers are a common cause of post-rebuild rattles and slow joint fatigue.
Clips, clamps, and rivets. Wiring harness clips, hose and pipe clamps, body panel rivets, and bulkhead fixings. The Freelander 1 and Freelander 2 use a high proportion of plastic clip fixings on the interior trim and underbonnet wiring; most are single-use and break on removal. Rivets are non-serviceable once set and must be drilled out to remove.
Fixing kits. Pre-grouped sets of fasteners for specific repair sections. Bulkhead repair kits, door hinge sets, body mount kits, suspension rebuild kits. Useful where a single specification list covers an entire repair area and individual SKU lookup would be slow.
Specialist fixings. Torque-to-yield bolts, single-use stretch bolts, lock nuts with metal or nylon inserts, and vibration-resistant hardware. These are called out in the Land Rover workshop manual for specific applications and should be replaced with new parts rather than reused.
Selection guideThree rules cover most situations.
For load-bearing chassis, suspension, and drivetrain work, use property class 8.8 or 10.9 carbon-steel bolts unless the workshop manual specifies a different grade. Property class 12.9 is reserved for applications where the manual calls for it. Carbon-steel bolts in exposed underbody locations need a corrosion-resistant coating: zinc plating is the most common, with phosphate or geomet coatings used where coating thickness matters for torque accuracy.
For body panels, interior fittings, and any joint between dissimilar metals, A2 (304-grade) or A4 (316-grade) stainless is the standard choice. A4 has better salt-water resistance and is the better option for coastal use or recovery vehicles.
For brake and steering hardware, follow the manual. These are safety-critical and frequently specify exact part numbers rather than generic grade equivalents. Mixing a stainless bolt into a brake assembly is rarely correct.
When ordering hardware for a Series I, II, or early Series III, confirm thread standard before adding to cart. Imperial Whitworth and UNF threads dominate on pre-1980 production, and modern metric replacements will not engage correctly. Restoration suppliers typically list thread standard alongside the part description, so check before ordering.
Mixing materials matters. Stainless and aluminium in direct contact, with road salt as the electrolyte, sets up galvanic corrosion that eats the aluminium. Anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the joint slows this significantly.
Fastener property class designations (8.8, 10.9, 12.9, A2, A4) are defined in the ISO 898-1 mechanical properties standard, which sets minimum proof load, tensile strength, and hardness requirements for each class.
Four checks reduce the risk of ordering the wrong fastener for the job.
Hardware in this collection is used throughout Land Rover and Range Rover vehicles. Common applications by category:
Three guides cover repair areas where hardware selection and torque specification matter for the result.
The rear crossmember is a known corrosion point and a regular APK failure cause. Repair sections fit with new fasteners and require the right grade for the load path.
Discovery 2 rear crossmember repair guideBall joint work on Discovery 3, Discovery 4, and Range Rover Sport involves pinch bolts, castle nuts, and cotter pins that are commonly single-use. Diagnostic guide covers symptoms and replacement hardware.
Land Rover ball joint diagnosis and replacementRestoration and off-road preparation work brings the full hardware inventory into play: chassis fixings, body mount renewals, recovery point bolts, spare hardware to carry.
Defender 90 off-road prep and spares guideFor load-bearing and safety-critical fasteners (suspension, brakes, steering, drivetrain mounting), use Genuine or OEM. These are produced to Land Rover's material grade, dimensional, and torque tolerance specifications, which matters for joints that carry road load or yield under torque. For non-critical body and interior fixings (trim clips, panel screws, low-load brackets), well-specified aftermarket fasteners that match the original property class and coating are commonly used and perform reliably. The deciding factor is the load path, not the brand on the box.
ISO 898-1 specifies minimum tensile and yield strength for each property class. Grade 8.8 carbon-steel bolts have a minimum tensile strength of 800 MPa and minimum yield strength of 640 MPa in the M5 to M16 range. Grade 10.9 minimum tensile is 1040 MPa, and grade 12.9 minimum tensile is 1220 MPa. For Land Rover chassis and suspension applications the workshop manual normally specifies 8.8 or 10.9. Grade 12.9 is reserved for applications that explicitly call for it.
No. Series I, II, and pre-1980 Series III production uses imperial Whitworth and UNF threads inherited from the 1948 to 1985 production run. Defender from 1983 onwards, Discovery from 1989, Range Rover, and Freelander all use metric threads to ISO standards. Imperial and metric of the same nominal diameter look similar but will cross-thread if mixed. Restoration suppliers list thread standard alongside Series-era parts; confirm before ordering.
Some can be reused, some cannot. Many factory bolts in suspension, drivetrain, and engine mounting positions are torque-to-yield: they stretch into their plastic deformation range when first torqued and lose accuracy if reused. The Land Rover workshop manual marks these as single-use. Standard non-yield bolts in low-stress positions can usually be reused if threads, head, and shank are undamaged and any locking compound is cleaned off.
Zinc plating gives carbon-steel bolts moderate corrosion resistance and is the most common coating on underbody Land Rover hardware. Stainless steel (A2 grade is 304, A4 grade is 316) gives higher corrosion resistance and is preferred for body panels, interior fittings, and coastal-use vehicles, with A4 being the better choice for salt-air exposure. Black oxide is a thin conversion coating used mainly on interior and low-exposure parts; it offers minimal corrosion protection on its own and is usually paired with an oil film.
Galvanic corrosion happens when two metals with different electrochemical potentials sit in direct contact with an electrolyte (water with road salt or mud). Aluminium loses material to steel under those conditions. To slow it down: clean both surfaces before assembly, apply anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the contact face, and where possible use a nylon or fibre washer to isolate the two metals. This is especially relevant on alloy suspension components and aluminium body panels secured by steel hardware.
A fixing kit groups every fastener needed for a specific repair section into a single bagged set. Common examples include bulkhead repair kits, body mount renewal kits, door hinge sets, and suspension overhaul kits. Kits are worth buying when a single repair touches multiple fastener types and sizes: it removes the SKU-by-SKU lookup, ensures the right grade is used across the joint set, and usually costs less than buying each fastener individually. For single-bolt replacements, individual parts are normally the better route.
Updated: May 2026