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This collection covers Land Rover and Range Rover hardware and fasteners, including bolts, nuts, washers, clips, rivets, and fixing kits used across chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain assemblies. Fitment depends on thread standard, grade, and application, particularly between Series-era imperial systems and later metric platforms.
Grommet
Core Plug (Cup Type) for sealing the core holes left in the engine block casting after the sand cores are removed during manufacture. The cup-shap...
View full detailsHead Bolt Kit - a complete set of cylinder head bolts for the Rover V8 engine, securing the cylinder heads to the block and clamping the head gaske...
View full detailsAluminium Sealing Washer is a soft metal crush washer fitted under a threaded plug or fitting to form a leak-tight joint. When the bolt or plug is...
View full detailsGrille Screw – Black secures the front grille panel to its surrounding bodywork. The black finish matches the grille and adjacent trim, giving a d...
View full detailsSelf-Tapping Screw – No. 8 × 1/2 in is a general-purpose fastener used across body, trim and electrical fixings, such as lamp guards, wheelguards, ...
View full detailsLock Washer for the steering box assembly. Fitted beneath a steering box fastener to lock it against rotation, holding the joint secure under stee...
View full detailsPedal Pin is the pivot pin in the pedal box assembly that locates the brake and clutch pedals. It passes through the pedal boss and the pedal moun...
View full detailsVent Lid Hinge Pin - hinge pin for the dash ventilator flap. This pin forms the pivot on which the dash fresh-air ventilator lid hinges, allowing ...
View full detailsHexagon Nut with a 7/16" BSF (British Standard Fine) thread. A standard nut cut to the British Standard Fine thread form used throughout the fixin...
View full detailsSteering Box Joint Washer - 0.005" selective shim washer used within the steering box. Fitted at the steering box joint face, this shim sets the c...
View full detailsFlywheel Housing Stud - a mounting stud at the flywheel housing. Threaded into the housing, it provides the fixed stud onto which the mating compo...
View full detailsSpring Clip - a retaining clip in the transfer gearbox selector linkage. It secures the transfer lever to its pivot, holding the gear-change lever...
View full detailsPlain Washer - the upper mounting washer for the shock absorber. It seats over the top shock absorber mounting stud beneath the retaining nut, spr...
View full detailsU-Bolt - a rear leaf-spring axle clamp. It passes around the axle tube and clamps the rear leaf spring to the axle seat via the lower spring plate...
View full detailsExhaust Saddle Clamp for securing exhaust pipe sections to underbody mounting brackets in the exhaust system. The U-shaped saddle body seats over ...
View full detailsDoor Bolt Kit - a stainless steel fixing set for the four side doors (Non-Puma applications). The kit comprises M8 countersunk Allen-head bolts, J...
View full detailsGrille Screw Kit - a set of stainless steel fixing screws for mounting the front radiator grille to the body panel. The screws secure the grille a...
View full detailsFlange Head Screw, metric M6 x 20 mm. The integral flange beneath the hex head spreads the clamping load over a wider area and helps resist looseni...
View full detailsGrease Nipple is a long-thread lubrication fitting with a UNF thread form, used to deliver grease into propshaft universal joints and sliding splin...
View full detailsSplit Pin Assortment A 280-piece assortment of split pins (cotter pins) in a range of sizes, supplied as a workshop set. Split pins secure castell...
View full detailsLokut Nut is a self-locking nut used to secure the headlamp to the body at the front wing. The self-locking design resists loosening under vibrati...
View full detailsBolt Mounting bolt for the rear suspension arm. Part of the rear multi-link suspension assembly, it secures a rear upper or lower suspension arm a...
View full detailsDistance piece
Bumper Bolt Set in stainless steel - the fixing kit that secures the front bumper to the chassis front cross-member. This kit includes 4 x M10 x 1...
View full detailsSeal
Suspension Bush for the rear lower link (bottom link) of the coil-sprung rear suspension. It presses into the link eye, cushioning the pivot mounti...
View full detailsSpring ring
Brake Pipe Clip (double) for ABS-equipped braking systems, used to route and secure rigid brake pipes. The double form holds two brake pipes side ...
View full detailsFront Bumper Securing Bolt for fastening the front bumper to the chassis crossmember. M10 thread, 120 mm long, with a black finish.
Ball Joint for the anti-roll bar drop link. It forms the pivoting connection at the end of the anti-roll bar, linking the bar to the suspension so ...
View full detailsInjector Bolt secures the fuel injector clamp within the cylinder head on the 2.7 and 3.0 V6 diesel engines. The M6 x 35 mm bolt retains the clamp...
View full detailsFlanged Nyloc Nut, M10, a multi-purpose locking fastener used across the chassis and suspension. The nylon insert resists loosening under vibratio...
View full detailsFlanged Screw, M8 x 20mm. A hex-head set screw with an integral flange beneath the head that spreads the clamping load and acts as a built-in washe...
View full detailsFlange Bolt is an M8 hexagon flange bolt with a 40 mm shank length. The integral flange beneath the head spreads clamping load over a wider bearin...
View full detailsFuel Pipe Clip securing fuel pipe within the fuel delivery system. The clip retains and locates the fuel line along its routing, holding it agains...
View full detailsO-Ring sealing the front crankshaft (timing) sprocket within the timing case of the 2.5L 300TDi turbo diesel engine. It forms an oil-tight seal ar...
View full detailsCam Cover Sealing Washer Seals a camshaft cover retaining bolt on the 300 TDi 2.5L turbo diesel engine. Fitted beneath the head of the cam (rocker...
View full detailsFront door handle LH 2A 90/110
Link Clip - an anti-rattle clip for the side door latch linkage. It retains the latch operating rod within the door lock mechanism, holding the li...
View full detailsAnti-Rattle Clip secures the linkage rod within the door latch and lock mechanism. It retains the lock linkage rod at its connection point, holdin...
View full detailsLoadspace Mat Retainer for the rear door aperture at the tailboard. The retainer is a profiled strip that clamps the rear door weatherseal and the...
View full detailsTab Washer for the steering drop arm retaining nut on the Adwest steering box. Fitted beneath the drop arm nut on the steering box output shaft, t...
View full detailsWheel Stud for the axle hub - 16mm pull-in type. Mounts in the hub flange to carry the road wheel, which is clamped by the wheel nut running on th...
View full detailsInlet Manifold Stud with a UNF thread. Threads into the cylinder head to mount the inlet manifold, taking the manifold nut that clamps the manifol...
View full detailsBarrel Lock with Key A lock barrel (cylinder) supplied complete with its key, forming the keyed locking element of the door lock assembly. The bar...
View full detailsMounting Stud
Lock Nut with a 5/16" BSF thread. The lock nut secures a threaded fastening against loosening under vibration, maintaining clamp load in service. ...
View full detailsA Land Rover is held together by several thousand individual fasteners. Bolts, nuts, washers, clips, and rivets carry structural loads across the chassis, suspension, body, and drivetrain. On vehicles used off-road, towed regularly, or stored outdoors, these components see vibration, repeated load cycles, and exposure to mud, road salt, and water. Replacing them with the correct grade and coating during service or rebuild work is part of keeping the vehicle safe and rattle-free.
The Series I, II, and III generation use a mix of imperial Whitworth and UNF threads from the 1948 to 1985 production run, switching to metric on some later Series III assemblies. Defender, Discovery, Range Rover, and Freelander production from 1989 onwards uses metric throughout, with ISO 898-1 property class markings (8.8, 10.9, 12.9) standard across the range. This collection groups fasteners by application: chassis and structural mounts, suspension and steering linkages, body panels and bulkhead, brake and underbody, and interior trim. Use the filter to narrow by model or part category.
Categories on this pageFive main groups cover the parts in this collection.
Bolts, nuts, and studs. Standard threaded fasteners across the vehicle. Suspension arm bolts, engine mount studs, gearbox crossmember bolts, body-to-chassis mounts. Grade is selected to ISO 898-1 property classes: 8.8 and 10.9 are the most common in chassis and suspension applications on Defender, Discovery, and Range Rover, with 12.9 used where higher tensile strength is required. Stainless variants (A2 and A4) appear in body and interior locations where corrosion resistance matters more than peak tensile strength.
Washers and spacers. Plain washers, spring washers, locking washers, and shim spacers. These distribute clamping load, prevent galling on softer surfaces, and resist loosening from vibration. Mismatched or missing washers are a common cause of post-rebuild rattles and slow joint fatigue.
Clips, clamps, and rivets. Wiring harness clips, hose and pipe clamps, body panel rivets, and bulkhead fixings. The Freelander 1 and Freelander 2 use a high proportion of plastic clip fixings on the interior trim and underbonnet wiring; most are single-use and break on removal. Rivets are non-serviceable once set and must be drilled out to remove.
Fixing kits. Pre-grouped sets of fasteners for specific repair sections. Bulkhead repair kits, door hinge sets, body mount kits, suspension rebuild kits. Useful where a single specification list covers an entire repair area and individual SKU lookup would be slow.
Specialist fixings. Torque-to-yield bolts, single-use stretch bolts, lock nuts with metal or nylon inserts, and vibration-resistant hardware. These are called out in the Land Rover workshop manual for specific applications and should be replaced with new parts rather than reused.
Selection guideThree rules cover most situations.
For load-bearing chassis, suspension, and drivetrain work, use property class 8.8 or 10.9 carbon-steel bolts unless the workshop manual specifies a different grade. Property class 12.9 is reserved for applications where the manual calls for it. Carbon-steel bolts in exposed underbody locations need a corrosion-resistant coating: zinc plating is the most common, with phosphate or geomet coatings used where coating thickness matters for torque accuracy.
For body panels, interior fittings, and any joint between dissimilar metals, A2 (304-grade) or A4 (316-grade) stainless is the standard choice. A4 has better salt-water resistance and is the better option for coastal use or recovery vehicles.
For brake and steering hardware, follow the manual. These are safety-critical and frequently specify exact part numbers rather than generic grade equivalents. Mixing a stainless bolt into a brake assembly is rarely correct.
When ordering hardware for a Series I, II, or early Series III, confirm thread standard before adding to cart. Imperial Whitworth and UNF threads dominate on pre-1980 production, and modern metric replacements will not engage correctly. Restoration suppliers typically list thread standard alongside the part description, so check before ordering.
Mixing materials matters. Stainless and aluminium in direct contact, with road salt as the electrolyte, sets up galvanic corrosion that eats the aluminium. Anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the joint slows this significantly.
Fastener property class designations (8.8, 10.9, 12.9, A2, A4) are defined in the ISO 898-1 mechanical properties standard, which sets minimum proof load, tensile strength, and hardness requirements for each class.
Four checks reduce the risk of ordering the wrong fastener for the job.
Hardware in this collection is used throughout Land Rover and Range Rover vehicles. Common applications by category:
Three guides cover repair areas where hardware selection and torque specification matter for the result.
The rear crossmember is a known corrosion point and a regular APK failure cause. Repair sections fit with new fasteners and require the right grade for the load path.
Discovery 2 rear crossmember repair guideBall joint work on Discovery 3, Discovery 4, and Range Rover Sport involves pinch bolts, castle nuts, and cotter pins that are commonly single-use. Diagnostic guide covers symptoms and replacement hardware.
Land Rover ball joint diagnosis and replacementRestoration and off-road preparation work brings the full hardware inventory into play: chassis fixings, body mount renewals, recovery point bolts, spare hardware to carry.
Defender 90 off-road prep and spares guideFor load-bearing and safety-critical fasteners (suspension, brakes, steering, drivetrain mounting), use Genuine or OEM. These are produced to Land Rover's material grade, dimensional, and torque tolerance specifications, which matters for joints that carry road load or yield under torque. For non-critical body and interior fixings (trim clips, panel screws, low-load brackets), well-specified aftermarket fasteners that match the original property class and coating are commonly used and perform reliably. The deciding factor is the load path, not the brand on the box.
ISO 898-1 specifies minimum tensile and yield strength for each property class. Grade 8.8 carbon-steel bolts have a minimum tensile strength of 800 MPa and minimum yield strength of 640 MPa in the M5 to M16 range. Grade 10.9 minimum tensile is 1040 MPa, and grade 12.9 minimum tensile is 1220 MPa. For Land Rover chassis and suspension applications the workshop manual normally specifies 8.8 or 10.9. Grade 12.9 is reserved for applications that explicitly call for it.
No. Series I, II, and pre-1980 Series III production uses imperial Whitworth and UNF threads inherited from the 1948 to 1985 production run. Defender from 1983 onwards, Discovery from 1989, Range Rover, and Freelander all use metric threads to ISO standards. Imperial and metric of the same nominal diameter look similar but will cross-thread if mixed. Restoration suppliers list thread standard alongside Series-era parts; confirm before ordering.
Some can be reused, some cannot. Many factory bolts in suspension, drivetrain, and engine mounting positions are torque-to-yield: they stretch into their plastic deformation range when first torqued and lose accuracy if reused. The Land Rover workshop manual marks these as single-use. Standard non-yield bolts in low-stress positions can usually be reused if threads, head, and shank are undamaged and any locking compound is cleaned off.
Zinc plating gives carbon-steel bolts moderate corrosion resistance and is the most common coating on underbody Land Rover hardware. Stainless steel (A2 grade is 304, A4 grade is 316) gives higher corrosion resistance and is preferred for body panels, interior fittings, and coastal-use vehicles, with A4 being the better choice for salt-air exposure. Black oxide is a thin conversion coating used mainly on interior and low-exposure parts; it offers minimal corrosion protection on its own and is usually paired with an oil film.
Galvanic corrosion happens when two metals with different electrochemical potentials sit in direct contact with an electrolyte (water with road salt or mud). Aluminium loses material to steel under those conditions. To slow it down: clean both surfaces before assembly, apply anti-seize paste or dielectric grease at the contact face, and where possible use a nylon or fibre washer to isolate the two metals. This is especially relevant on alloy suspension components and aluminium body panels secured by steel hardware.
A fixing kit groups every fastener needed for a specific repair section into a single bagged set. Common examples include bulkhead repair kits, body mount renewal kits, door hinge sets, and suspension overhaul kits. Kits are worth buying when a single repair touches multiple fastener types and sizes: it removes the SKU-by-SKU lookup, ensures the right grade is used across the joint set, and usually costs less than buying each fastener individually. For single-bolt replacements, individual parts are normally the better route.
Updated: May 2026